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Build Your Own AK (Vol. II): Building The Parts Kit Book Pdf

Heads up all - LWD parts are not longer covered under P80's frame warranty. Just blew mine because I reached out to try and get a new rear rail for my PF940CV1 (there has been some alignment issues from what I researched) and they refused to help me out because they saw that I had LWD LPKs installed...Even if you go on the P80 website for the frame, they now exclusively state that use of LWD voids the warranty - hope this helps future P80s builders out there - Too bad because LWD looked g2g but I prefer to keep my warranty

Build Your Own AK (Vol. II): Building the Parts Kit book pdf

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Can I make a suggestion? I'm building my very first P80, After following your instructions to assembling it (which are awesome by the way) I noticed I had a left over part. That's never a good sign. After doing some digging I realized you left out the instructions to install the GLOCK FIRING PIN CHANNEL LINER. You have a picture of it included in your parts shot but no mention of it or how to install it. On you tube they suggested just a regular Bic pen to push it in, which worked flawlessly. Thank you for the article, other than that it's awesome!!

Out of curiosity... What features would you modify if you were building this as competition G17? I'm asking since you said neither build liked your low power reloads... what would the fix be for that?

Eric, with all due respect, I believe the LWD kit is NOT a good idea for these, and would strongly recommend Glock parts. I've also built three of them.My PF940C with the LWD kit had failures to reset when I held the trigger all the way back as hard as I could. This is because the trigger is given more room to move, and you can actually cause the trigger bar to flex. This flexing causes the connector to be pushed inwards towards the frame, so much so that the slide failed to reset the trigger. You can test this out yourself with the slide off the frame, and it's pretty obvious if you have a "real" Glock to compare it to (as it doesn't suffer from trigger bar flex). The LWD connector is ever so slightly out of spec, and replacing it with a Glock connector solved the reset problem. The core problem here is a design flaw with trigger travel, but the LWD kit exacerbates it.Further, IMHO, the LWD extended magazine release is horrible on these frames, and a standard Glock mag release works far better due to how the magazine release area is cut inwards towards the frame.

I completed my Glock 17 last week, and I'll tell ya it was so much fun! The only customized part i installed was an extended slide stop because i always had trouble getting a solid grip on the stock option. Also i shot 200 defensive rounds with it just yesterday. It ran REALLY smooth. I might put in a custom trigger later on. My only regret is not getting a different color frame other than black. Oh well. If you're thinking about building one, just be patient with it. All the filing and sanding was the real work of this project. I wanted it perfect, because i saw what problems other people were having and it was because they rushed through it. So patience is the key.

I'm all for building your own guns at home, I've done 6 AR15s so far, 4 in 5.56 and 2 in 300BLK (one is a 10.5" pistol) and an AR10 in .308Win/7.62X51. Both polymer and aluminum, on a drill press with a compound table and vise. The most expensive was the AR10 at about $800.But with the cost right now for a polymer Glock I can do better finding a used one for sale from a private party.The cost of the frame is not that much more than an AR15 Lower. it's the rest of the parts.Direct from Polymer80 all 3 frames with jig are $160.Slide is $325 to $400, barrel is $175 to $225, Slide parts $100, and I don't see the frame parts listed.$760 already with the cheapest parts and not even complete.Used Glock as low as $400 or so on Armslist. But I don't want one, I have two Taurus 9mm. Pistols.PT24/7 Pro LS DS and a PT111 Millennium G2.

I know that Racetech and Works will build shocks to exactly fit your needs. Lengthening the rear shocks eye-to-eye can get you more cornering clearance and better turn-in for corners. But lowering the back end of the bike, as seen in many current custom builds, has the opposite effect.

Before choosing a wind system for your home, you should consider reducing your energy consumption by making your home or business more energy efficient. You can start by learning how electricity is used in U.S. homes. Reducing your energy consumption will significantly lower your utility bills and will reduce the size of the home-based renewable energy system you need. To achieve maximum energy efficiency, you should take a whole-building approach. View your home as an energy system with interrelated parts, all of which work synergistically to contribute to the efficiency of the system. From the insulation in your home's walls to the light bulbs in its fixtures, there are many ways to make your home more efficient.

Because wind speeds increase with height, the turbine is mounted on a tower. In general, the higher the tower, the more power the wind system can produce. The tower also raises the turbine above the air turbulence that can exist close to the ground because of obstructions such as hills, buildings, and trees. A general rule of thumb is to install a wind turbine on a tower with the bottom of the rotor blades at least 30 feet (9 meters) above any obstacle that is within 300 feet (90 meters) of the tower.[14] Relatively small investments in increased tower height can yield very high rates of return in power production.

Costs in addition to the turbine and the tower are the balance of system, including parts and labor, which will depend on your application. Most manufacturers can provide you with a system package that includes all the parts you need for your application. For example, the parts required for a water-pumping system will be different from the parts required for a residential, grid-connected application. The balance of system equipment required will also depend on whether the system is grid-connected, stand-alone, or part of a hybrid system. For a residential grid-connected application, the balance of system parts may include a controller, storage batteries, a power conditioning unit (inverter), wiring, foundation, and installation. Many wind turbine controllers, inverters, or other electrical devices may be stamped by a recognized testing agency, such as Underwriters Laboratories or Intertek.

The Wind Energy Payback Period Workbook is a Microsoft Excel spreadsheet tool that can help you analyze the economics of a small wind electric system and decide whether wind energy will work for you. It asks you to provide information about how you will finance the system, the characteristics of your site, and the properties of the system you're considering. It then provides you with a simple payback estimation (assumes no increase in electricity rates) in years. If the number of years required to regain your capital investment is greater than or almost equal to the life of the system, then wind energy will not be practical for you.

If the surrounding area of a potential site is not relatively flat for several miles, then an evaluation of the main topographic features is necessary, both nearby (macro siting) and at the proposed turbine site (micro siting). The topographical evaluation should include shape, height, length, width, and distance and direction away from the proposed turbine site of any landforms. "Nearby" could include influences from large objects such as hills, groves of trees, or high wind breaks up to a mile away, and smaller objects could include single trees and buildings, especially within 500 feet of the proposed turbine location.

In addition to geologic formations, you need to consider existing obstacles such as trees, houses, and sheds, and you need to plan for future obstructions such as new buildings or trees that have not reached their full height.[31] Your turbine needs to be sited upwind of buildings and trees[32], and it needs to be 30 feet above anything within a 500-foot horizontal radius.[33] You also need enough room to raise and lower the tower for maintenance, and if your tower is guyed, you must allow room for the guy wires.

While there have been instances of wind turbines mounted on rooftops, it should be noted that all wind turbines vibrate and transmit the vibration to the structure on which they are mounted. This can lead to noise problems within the building. Also, the wind resource on the rooftop is in an area of increased turbulence, which can shorten the life of the turbine and reduce energy production. Additional costs related to mitigating these concerns, combined with the fact that they produce less power, make rooftop-mounted wind turbines less cost-effective than small wind systems that are installed on a tower connected to the ground. For more information, see Deployment of Wind Turbines in the Built Environment: Risks, Lessons, and Recommended Practices.

Small Wind Certification Council Established in 2008, the Small Wind Certification Council (SWCC) certifies small and medium wind turbines. Consumers can use the information provided by the SWCC to obtain rated annual energy, power, and sound estimates from an independent ISO/IEC 17065 accredited certification body to better understand the product they are purchasing. In 2016, the SWCC joined the International Code Council Evaluation Service (ICC-ES). ICC-ES is a nonprofit that conducts technical evaluations of building products, components, methods, and materials."

Education: (Include discussion of energy efficiency, turbine and tower options, horizontal-axis and vertical-axis wind turbines, micro/small/large/multiple units, incentives, economics, operation and maintenance expectations, off-grid systems, and building integration).


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